🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.